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cheap minecraft/airsoft capable NIGHTVISION setup guide/post your overpriced NV rig here

I'm sorry Dave, I'm afraid I can't do that
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Red7
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cheap minecraft/airsoft capable NIGHTVISION setup guide/post your overpriced NV rig here

Post by Red7 »

could 550 usd setup outperform 20k analog tubes? in some situations YES;
china china NUMBA ONE

nvg30 vs 3 gen analog pros cons tldr;
► Show Spoiler

so i watched one jewtuber fag who put 350 usd nvg10 on 200 usd retardedly overpriced murican bump helmet and be like "u are in the game"
here i suggest how u can get working setup under 550 usd based on nvg30. which unlike nvg10 is fully minecraft capable including passive, active aming and even negro aiming.

introduction;
► Show Spoiler
nvg30 improvements;
► Show Spoiler
nvg30 is around 500 usd for set with mount and 550 with helmet but same helmet u can buy separately for 10 usd.
5 usd for velcro back pocket as counterweight to helmet
10 for 850 nm ir flashlight so u can illuminate while passive amiming by mounting on helmet or your airsoft.850 is bit more visible than 940 but throws light much better.
5 usd for flashlight mount

all up 530 usd. less than nvg10 with retardedly ovepriced murican bump and vastly more capable.


for hot weather use i got cap with bump insert to reduce that skull crushfeeling after couple hours of wearing mounted shit
0.5 kg weight velcro on back of cap for balance.

helmets shouldnt have holes like some gay bumps do imo, im use them in winter or when it rains. without high cut for gay ear protection i got some wind cover and still can hear shit. for bumb helmet back pocket counterweight i just use 4 backup batteries, i got there also usb cable so i can power from powerbank.
nvg30 uses 18650 in 4-5 hr.
ir flashlight on other side balances helmet as well, uses same battery type.



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Last edited by Red7 on March 27th, 2024, 10:39, edited 2 times in total.
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A Chinese opium den
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Post by A Chinese opium den »

Red7 wrote: March 27th, 2024, 10:35
could 550 usd setup outperform 20k analog tubes? in some situations YES;
china china NUMBA ONE

nvg30 vs 3 gen analog pros cons tldr;
► Show Spoiler

so i watched one jewtuber fag who put 350 usd nvg10 on 200 usd retardedly overpriced murican bump helmet and be like "u are in the game"
here i suggest how u can get working setup under 550 usd based on nvg30. which unlike nvg10 is fully minecraft capable including passive, active aming and even negro aiming.

introduction;
► Show Spoiler
nvg30 improvements;
► Show Spoiler
nvg30 is around 500 usd for set with mount and 550 with helmet but same helmet u can buy separately for 10 usd.
5 usd for velcro back pocket as counterweight to helmet
10 for 850 nm ir flashlight so u can illuminate while passive amiming by mounting on helmet or your airsoft.850 is bit more visible than 940 but throws light much better.
5 usd for flashlight mount

all up 530 usd. less than nvg10 with retardedly ovepriced murican bump and vastly more capable.


for hot weather use i got cap with bump insert to reduce that skull crushfeeling after couple hours of wearing mounted shit
0.5 kg weight velcro on back of cap for balance.

helmets shouldnt have holes like some gay bumps do imo, im use them in winter or when it rains. without high cut for gay ear protection i got some wind cover and still can hear shit. for bumb helmet back pocket counterweight i just use 4 backup batteries, i got there also usb cable so i can power from powerbank.
nvg30 uses 18650 in 4-5 hr.
ir flashlight on other side balances helmet as well, uses same battery type.



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How does it do with a 400+ lumen flashlight pointed at it? Though $500~ is the cheapest I've ever seen nvgs that don't seem like trash, even being better than just gen 1+ its probably worth the price.
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Post by Red7 »

A Chinese opium den wrote: March 27th, 2024, 12:18

How does it do with a 400+ lumen flashlight pointed at it? Though $500~ is the cheapest I've ever seen nvgs that don't seem like trash, even being better than just gen 1+ its probably worth the price.
if you will look indirectly at 150 lumens it wont bloom screen at all but if u look directly in very bright light or not so bright infra red light it will bloom (strong ir light will bloom bit even if not looking directly at it).
i havent done testing with flashlight on 2000 lumens yet but when i look at wall where i point regular red laser (green would probably be bit brighter ergo worse)
it blooms the area where lasers hits to like size of fist. im not sure how ir laser would i dont have any yet to test. it works fine for passive aiming on my red dot when at low, at highest brightness blooms entire scope so i cant see shit tho.

if u get strong flashlight beam directly in lense it will mostly bloom screen, but then again probably bit less than analog and u wont get post artefacts like when analog tube heals

i got also older digital "bino" which was like 100 usd and it works well (clumsy af tho) if u dont mind narrow field (like 10 degree) of view and 240p screen but that crap needs strong ir light to operate. nvg30 is first digital ive seen that can perform well on passive mode. its about as good as gen2+ with ambient light. if they had put better lense it could probably go halfway to gen3 but then again price would be higher too.
Last edited by Red7 on March 27th, 2024, 13:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Red7 »


not sure what tubes he got in this pvs14 also its probably better to order it from china than via shop he peddling.
that one older nv i bought some time ago for 100, i seen it being sold for over 200 in some shops.
many western "entrepreneurs" like to buy shit from china, put their jew sticker on box and charge over 100% premium, sometimes even 400%

Last edited by Red7 on March 27th, 2024, 17:18, edited 4 times in total.
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Post by Red7 »

this old gen1+ performs close to gen2+. look like it weghs 3kg and comes with skull crushing headstarp lol
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Post by Oyster Sauce »

I hope my retired life consists of me protecting cattle from coyotes with NVGs and remote sentry guns like a tower defence game
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Post by Red7 »

i did bit of testing on nvg30 and

1) thing i really dont like is battery indicator;

default battery it comes with is around 2500 mah. i put in 3500 mah (it should be at least 3000)
after less than 15 min of goofing around battery dropped to 2 from 3 bars. and it stayed there for like hour/hour and half
after 1 more hour tops (overall around 2 hours total usage) indicator dropped to single bar. i was like wtf they advertised it to last at least 3 hours with jewfi on.

i left it with 1 bar and ir illuminator on on lowest setting. 2 hours later device still working and empty battery indicator. half hour later it tunred off. so with no ir in optimal conditions it could work up to 5 hours on 3500 mah. im not sure if i cant fit there one of those 5000 mah batteries from nietcore flashlights, waiting for package.

so battery indicator seems to be;

3bars; 99-100% (?)
2bars; 50-99%
1bar; 25-50%
0bars; 0-25%

it really should have atleast decimal resolution imo. for cold weather i may need to run it with power bank via usb c cable cause it will drain like 5 times faster


2)performance; i can see why that one guy he said he likes this in urban area

with lots of ir pollution this thing works really well. it can see colors almost like in day, great clarity and wont bloom much with background lights
so it could outperform there gen2/gen3 analog, plus u got zoom and other digital functions.
outside city u need full moon or half moon with good weather for it to be usable in passive. maybe some clouds with city nearby to bounce ir pollution
with low ambient light it wont perform. in very low light, like closed room it may be worse than natural nightvision, it just needs bit ir to work in passive.

so for dense woods with no moon/low mabient light if know u cant risk illuminator, analog would be better, u could build one for around 1.5k, even some 1+ gen analog would perform passively much better in those conditions.

as for active mode, u got 4 options. its 940nm in first mode the illumination is so weak its impossible to see illuminator with naked eye and it will make device work at least on short distance like under 20 yards; so u still got advantage over no night vision minecraft player

at modes 1,2,3 the illuminator is visibile as faint red light and increases range to like 30-50 yards. still it will be hard to see with nake eye over 20 yards.
i think i will run it with auxiliary ir flashlight in low ambient conditions or even sometimes in full moon. the ir beam nicely bounces of animal retinas making them visible from 100+ yards, this would be perfect for hunting.
Last edited by Red7 on April 1st, 2024, 08:52, edited 4 times in total.
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Post by Red7 »

oppulent fag sounding murican spending 500 usd monthly on weed be like "ask jesus to help u quit your habbit so u can affor 20k nvg setup after couple years"
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Post by Red7 »

so retarded. u can get like 2 usd bumb insert from china that fits cap hat. put regular skull crusher straps on it, add grip with some velcros, tie up counter balance and u got something that wont crush your skull anymore. for like 10 usd. if u got the ball cap.

this trash costs 110 usd lmaof, they dont even include counterweight pouch.
Last edited by Red7 on April 1st, 2024, 15:09, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by A Chinese opium den »

Any recommendations for cheap IR lasers? Most of them I can find with a quick search seem to be either too expensive or dogshit that wont hold zero.
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Post by Red7 »

A Chinese opium den wrote: April 7th, 2024, 17:30
Any recommendations for cheap IR lasers? Most of them I can find with a quick search seem to be either too expensive or dogshit that wont hold zero.
i think cheap lasers are hit and miss

i got 2 lasers on my build, when i use bore laser it looks like predator lel
i use one centerline above bore on main rail for 3-50 yards and one on siderail for 1-3 yards cause i needed rail extension and it might as well do something. its closer to bore so i zeroed it on 3 yards.

they were both like 10-15 usd and hold zero well (at least as well as my vortex optic). red lasers.
im not sure what ir laser should cost. i seen some reviews of those chinese peq 15 rip offs and they performed really well but those are like 450 usd. its still absurd imo. i can get 3000+ lumen flashlight for 70 usd and decent ir floodlight for like 15.

most of those laser/light combos like peq are not centerline with bore/rail so they are bitch to zero. u need like really long range and somebody to help u with a fucking high magnification scope unless u zero to certain distance rather than run it parallel then u need to fucking calcualte how far off u need to correct left or right on top of elevation. and u need to got good idea of distance

another thing i think about is that ppl say ir lasers/active aiming is fine even if u face opponent with nv cause your muzzle signature will make u visible regardless
well your muzzle blast will be visible to naked eye as well so might as well use regualr laser that will give sharper dot in nightvision. also red laser wont be as visible as tracable line like brighter ir laser will to the nv.

on top of it ofc ir laser is not suable without nv and u can fuck your eyes if u are not careful if its turn on etc.
ir light is amust but it does not makes sense to me to get ir laser.

those chinese peq things seem to work well tho altho casing is maybe less durable. they were throwing guns against tree with those on and case cracked.


btw what kind of nv setup u run?
Last edited by Red7 on April 7th, 2024, 18:53, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Red7 »

i found one that has rail mount centerline with laser emitter
its called raid-x. lel the same guy who shilled chinese nv is showcasing it. it kinda pricey tho its like 150 usd. not sure it worth it



some ppl write raid x holds zero well
eventually SOTAC PERST-4 seems sturdy too but rail mount center not under laser...
Last edited by Red7 on April 7th, 2024, 19:37, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by A Chinese opium den »

Red7 wrote: April 7th, 2024, 18:50
A Chinese opium den wrote: April 7th, 2024, 17:30
Any recommendations for cheap IR lasers? Most of them I can find with a quick search seem to be either too expensive or dogshit that wont hold zero.
i think cheap lasers are hit and miss

i got 2 lasers on my build, when i use bore laser it looks like predator lel
i use one centerline above bore on main rail for 3-50 yards and one on siderail for 1-3 yards cause i needed rail extension and it might as well do something. its closer to bore so i zeroed it on 3 yards.

they were both like 10-15 usd and hold zero well (at least as well as my vortex optic). red lasers.
im not sure what ir laser should cost. i seen some reviews of those chinese peq 15 rip offs and they performed really well but those are like 450 usd. its still absurd imo. i can get 3000+ lumen flashlight for 70 usd and decent ir floodlight for like 15.

most of those laser/light combos like peq are not centerline with bore/rail so they are bitch to zero. u need like really long range and somebody to help u with a fucking high magnification scope unless u zero to certain distance rather than run it parallel then u need to fucking calcualte how far off u need to correct left or right on top of elevation. and u need to got good idea of distance

another thing i think about is that ppl say ir lasers/active aiming is fine even if u face opponent with nv cause your muzzle signature will make u visible regardless
well your muzzle blast will be visible to naked eye as well so might as well use regualr laser that will give sharper dot in nightvision. also red laser wont be as visible as tracable line like brighter ir laser will to the nv.

on top of it ofc ir laser is not suable without nv and u can fuck your eyes if u are not careful if its turn on etc.
ir light is amust but it does not makes sense to me to get ir laser.

those chinese peq things seem to work well tho altho casing is maybe less durable. they were throwing guns against tree with those on and case cracked.


btw what kind of nv setup u run?
From what you say I'm just going to stick to my visible laser then, its probably not worth the extra $500+ since anyone else minecrafting would probably have night vision to see IR anyways.
I've got a helmet mounted thermal monocular, I bought it a few years ago for night hunting mostly. It was a bit expensive but its got upsides like not needing any light at all for full vision and having better targeting since everything something living has touched recently retains a bit of heat + obvious silhouetting even through brush/camouflage. Now I want an NVG to put on my right eye so I can use an optic or look through any glass without needing to switch my flashlight on at night, and the other obvious advantages.
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Post by Red7 »

A Chinese opium den wrote: April 7th, 2024, 19:51
Red7 wrote: April 7th, 2024, 18:50
A Chinese opium den wrote: April 7th, 2024, 17:30
Any recommendations for cheap IR lasers? Most of them I can find with a quick search seem to be either too expensive or dogshit that wont hold zero.
i think cheap lasers are hit and miss

i got 2 lasers on my build, when i use bore laser it looks like predator lel
i use one centerline above bore on main rail for 3-50 yards and one on siderail for 1-3 yards cause i needed rail extension and it might as well do something. its closer to bore so i zeroed it on 3 yards.

they were both like 10-15 usd and hold zero well (at least as well as my vortex optic). red lasers.
im not sure what ir laser should cost. i seen some reviews of those chinese peq 15 rip offs and they performed really well but those are like 450 usd. its still absurd imo. i can get 3000+ lumen flashlight for 70 usd and decent ir floodlight for like 15.

most of those laser/light combos like peq are not centerline with bore/rail so they are bitch to zero. u need like really long range and somebody to help u with a fucking high magnification scope unless u zero to certain distance rather than run it parallel then u need to fucking calcualte how far off u need to correct left or right on top of elevation. and u need to got good idea of distance

another thing i think about is that ppl say ir lasers/active aiming is fine even if u face opponent with nv cause your muzzle signature will make u visible regardless
well your muzzle blast will be visible to naked eye as well so might as well use regualr laser that will give sharper dot in nightvision. also red laser wont be as visible as tracable line like brighter ir laser will to the nv.

on top of it ofc ir laser is not suable without nv and u can fuck your eyes if u are not careful if its turn on etc.
ir light is amust but it does not makes sense to me to get ir laser.

those chinese peq things seem to work well tho altho casing is maybe less durable. they were throwing guns against tree with those on and case cracked.


btw what kind of nv setup u run?
From what you say I'm just going to stick to my visible laser then, its probably not worth the extra $500+ since anyone else minecrafting would probably have night vision to see IR anyways.
I've got a helmet mounted thermal monocular, I bought it a few years ago for night hunting mostly. It was a bit expensive but its got upsides like not needing any light at all for full vision and having better targeting since everything something living has touched recently retains a bit of heat + obvious silhouetting even through brush/camouflage. Now I want an NVG to put on my right eye so I can use an optic or look through any glass without needing to switch my flashlight on at night, and the other obvious advantages.
i think u can get perferctly usable ir laser for under 150 usd but advantages are no that great. i dont think nightvision is that popular but still ir laser only allows u to target without being seen kinda like passive against nv player. but once u start blasting even suppressed its gonna be visible form mile at night.

im thinking about buying that ir/green laser combo, at least for hunting i could target animals without spooking them, altho red light/laser just confuses them most of time. and strong white light can make them freeze/blind them so u got time to use naked eye.


the idea of thermal/nv combo seems good in theory but i wouldnt do it.
imo u need at least one eye with full field of vision and natural nightvision for general orientation. even analog nodes have shit field of view, u would need to like run quads for like 20k and still vision will be restricted. nvg30 has bit less field of view cause is 16;9 display (so its like 40 and 25 degree rahter than 40x40)
what fov your model runs? both nv and thermal would have to be 1x with at least 40 degree fov

maybe u should try running nv monokular and put thermal on the gun. thermals alone are pretty bad for general navigation and picking up details in night.
there are nvs that got thermal module as overlay but those are like 15k if i recall.

btw how far u can pick up deer heat signature?
if u use ir light with nv u will see animals as far as ir light throws by eye reflections, altho finding them after they expire would be harder than with thermal i guess
i will look for some rail mountable ir scope eventually, write up your model i wonder how much it runs now.
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Post by Red7 »

@A Chinese opium den

i wanted to add if u got well working rig where u can walk around without breaking leg, falling in swamps etc there is no reason to fuck with it
especially if u are used to it. it may work better than getting high end nv in most cases or adding more weight on your head and reducing peripheral vision

but one thing u may consider is driving with lights off. thermal wont work thru glass so could use some helmet mounted nv with maybe ir extra lights on car.

i wonder how thermals are sensitive for white light and ir light sources, can they be blinded easily? im reading strong light like sun light can burn them
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Post by A Chinese opium den »

Red7 wrote: April 8th, 2024, 08:16
btw how far u can pick up deer heat signature?
if u use ir light with nv u will see animals as far as ir light throws by eye reflections, altho finding them after they expire would be harder than with thermal i guess
i will look for some rail mountable ir scope eventually, write up your model i wonder how much it runs now.
You can see any heat signature pretty clearly to about 350 meters or so, but I think if you wanted to shoot further than that you would be better off getting a dedicated thermal scope rather than monocular scope combo. The one I have is a StingIR, it cost $2k USD when I bought one. I don't think they sell outside US because of export rules though.
but one thing u may consider is driving with lights off. thermal wont work thru glass so could use some helmet mounted nv with maybe ir extra lights on car.
I've actually thought of getting NVGs for just this thing, but I didn't want to try it with a non-autogated one since if someone flashed their brights oncoming it would really fuck with you. Once or twice I've stuck my head out the window and turned the lights off to try driving with the thermal, it works but I wouldn't try it driving over 50 Mph just because that kind of wind in your face is very disorienting and your a bit off center.
i wonder how thermals are sensitive for white light and ir light sources, can they be blinded easily? im reading strong light like sun light can burn them
I've never had a single time where the thermal was blinded, and as far as I know you could look into any bright light sources and have no issue. Most I've tested other than normal daytime use is shining 900 lumen flashlight at it and looking through, you couldn't even see a difference when the flashlight was on or off except the flashlight getting hotter from being on. Idk about looking directly into the sun but it has no issues with looking up in the sky near the sun at least, and no clue about IR lights or high power lasers.
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Post by Red7 »

A Chinese opium den wrote: April 8th, 2024, 09:53
Once or twice I've stuck my head out the window and turned the lights off to try driving with the thermal, it works but I wouldn't try it driving over 50 Mph just because that kind of wind in your face is very disorienting and your a bit off center.
lel
ye i guess u could use it on motorcycle. im surprised your themal didnt have lag issues cause lag is notorious for all rendered image devices. from what i have read nvg30 is one of fastest/least lag (maybe opsin could be slightly faster) and still ppl wrote they would NOT want to drive with it at higher speeds. 40-50 mph is probably max safe.

if u want to drive fast with no lag u need analog i guess
btw i see AGM STINGIR-640 around 5k in eurokukzone. thats insane i can get for like 1,5 k decent rail mounted thermal from china
A Chinese opium den wrote: April 8th, 2024, 09:53
I've never had a single time where the thermal was blinded, and as far as I know you could look into any bright light sources and have no issue. Most I've tested other than normal daytime use is shining 900 lumen flashlight at it and looking through, you couldn't even see a difference when the flashlight was on or off except the flashlight getting hotter from being on. Idk about looking directly into the sun but it has no issues with looking up in the sky near the sun at least, and no clue about IR lights or high power lasers.
ye i just have read up on this and it seems thermals cant see ir or visible light at all. also wont see any laser beside some really high power ir lasers.
this could be advantegous as u said u cannot be blinded by ir illuminator or white light like u would be with nv.
but it also means u cant pick up easily when someone is using ir or even white light.
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Post by Red7 »

i add some paracord so if mount detaches it wont just fall down. also handy when i use it seperately to hold or hang on neck.
added second flashlight with wire thingy head. it costed like 18 usd, very handy; it got red, green, white and ir light. i can point it upwards and it can illuminate room without indicating my position directly
i also plan to mount 3000 lumens white light just by clip on velcro patch so i can pull it out as handheld quickly and i call it a day.
i dont want to end up like those fags putting ir strobe light on top of helmet and bitching they cant use it in car now.

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Last edited by Red7 on April 8th, 2024, 15:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Red7 »

nv and thermal summary;

thermal;
-better detection and distance
-picking up thermal traces
-cant be blinded

sniper/forest

nv;
-better field of view for cqb
-more enviroment detail/colors with digital
-ability to see lights and use ir lights for invisible comms

cqb/urban
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Post by Red7 »

chinese nietcore mh12 pro arrived.

really good thrower, the 5000 mah 21700 is much bigger than 18650 i try to standardize tho. good thing i had some copper disc (its perfectly 7mm thick) to close circuit, but without 18650 wont work. which they said it would.

holds well on that velcro patch on helmet. the clip could be bit sturdier but it does the job. one thing that i hate is thing turns off forcibly and stays off when u try to charge it/power via usbc. thats fucking bullshit
Last edited by Red7 on April 9th, 2024, 15:22, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Red7 »

nietcore 12 pro makes excellent hand warmer at 1200 lumens. at 3300 lumens it can actually burn my hardend slav palms
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Post by Red7 »

@A Chinese opium den is your thermal heat matrix in 384×288 or 640×480?
i see some decently price stuff in 388x288 but not sure if it will cut it. in 640x480 prices go insane
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Post by Hauberk »

Hey, @Red.
What would you recommend for operations in an urban enviroment? I mean thermals contra NVs. I heard that thermals can't see through windows for example. If accurate; is it the fact that targets might be back-lit that creates the problem or is it the window itself?
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Post by A Chinese opium den »

@Hauberk Its the window itself, it just cant see through glass at all period. You can surprisingly see your reflection in most glass so I don't quite understand why it works the way it does, but practically you could have a sheet of steel instead of glass for all it matters looking through a thermal.
@Red7 Mine's in 384 and it could be crisper but I don't know if 640 is so much better it justifies the usually 3k+ price hike over it. I can say its pretty clean quality for being the lower resolution, and its made up for by the fact that even when things are very far away and more pixelated your still getting a distinct heat signature which tells you what your looking at anyways.
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Post by Red7 »

Hauberk wrote: April 13th, 2024, 07:21
Hey, @Red.
What would you recommend for operations in an urban enviroment? I mean thermals contra NVs. I heard that thermals can't see through windows for example. If accurate; is it the fact that targets might be back-lit that creates the problem or is it the window itself?
ye glass just reflects thermal waves. u can actually stop thermal by very thin fabric as long as it wont touch u directly/heat up. also wearing thermal insulating clothing reduces signature.
but unlike with nvg u can spot heat signature behind thin brushes from hundreds of meters, possibly km+

in cqb and urban detection is not as hard or important as in dense forest. unless u are doing things wrong/moving heavily exposed u will likely have minecraft encounters at close distance. most brown minecraft players will relay on white light or cheap nv that relies on ir so u will see those even faster/behind corner better.

most thermals have very small field of view, nvgs are generally better, also u can use ir lasers which give u little advantage/headstart or can be used to sending signals invisible to others

if u were to take on some lets say popular minecraft player in his big home even faint internal lights from his voxel building could help u see inside and see if he is in window etc.
u could reduce it yourself by mounting ir flood lights around your house btw.

also u can see colors with better digital nv if there is enough ambient lighting (like opsin or nvg30, maybe aurora pro can see a bit as well)
that can help with identification etc




overall thermal is vastly superior in forest (for combat/detection/hunting) and nvs are superior in urban, in most cases. unless u need something only to navigate rather than detect, then nv should perform better cause u can drive with it and see more details like holes in ground etc.
Last edited by Red7 on April 13th, 2024, 11:27, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by Hauberk »

Thanks, very interesting. Do these things deteriorate quickly over time?
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Post by Red7 »

Hauberk wrote: April 13th, 2024, 13:59
Thanks, very interesting. Do these things deteriorate quickly over time?
im reading analog 2rd gen tubes lifespan is around 5 000 hours of usage (so buying used second gen2 maybe issue). thermal sensor shouldnt detoriate unless exposed to strong heat sources.
oled panels (cause digital nv are cameras) are 100 000 hours+

they shouldnt decay when not used unless u leave battery in and it leaks i guess
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Joined: Nov 16, '23

Post by Hauberk »

Thanks again, @Red. I've made good use of these things in Stalker already but Minecraft is the big league. By all accounts, it's a very dangerous game. Better come prepared to get that hi-score.
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